Dzo Jongo East & West (6,220m / 6,300m)

Mountaineering

Dzo Jongo East & West(6,220m / 6,300m)

  • Duration: 9 days
  • Difficulty: Moderate
  • Group size: 4–5 people

Overview

Twin summits at the head of the Nimaling Valley, reached via the Markha Valley trek and facing the main peak of Kang Yatse. Dzo Jongo East (6,220m) is a straightforward plod up a snow-lined ridge, trickier near the top where it crosses boulder fields hidden beneath the snow — roughly a nine-hour round trip from base camp. The higher West summit is climbed separately from a high camp at 5,800m, up a rocky plateau and a rib of moraine, then a snow slope that steepens near the top and needs care after fresh snowfall. Among the easiest 6,000m peaks in the Himalaya, and a far gentler objective than Kang Yatse I.

Day-by-day itinerary

  1. Day 01

    Leh arrival

    Acclimatization in Leh (3,500m).

  2. Day 02

    Leh acclimatization

    Explore local monasteries and prepare for expedition.

  3. Day 03

    Leh to Sara

    Drive to Sara and begin trek to Markha village.

  4. Day 04

    Markha to Hankar

    Continue up valley with Kang Yatse views.

  5. Day 05

    Hankar to Nimaling

    Ascend to high camp at Nimaling (4,700m).

  6. Day 06

    Nimaling rest day

    Acclimatisation hike up the Kongmaru La (5,270m) above camp, with views west to Dzo Jongo and Kang Yatse.

  7. Day 07

    Nimaling to Base Camp

    Establish base camp at 5,200m.

  8. Day 08

    Dzo Jongo East summit

    Summit Dzo Jongo East (6,220m) and return to base camp.

  9. Day 09

    Base Camp to Chokdo

    After crossing kongmaruLa decend down to chokdo valley while crossing multiple rivers. Car will pick you from chokdo and drop to your hotel in Leh.

What's included

  • Climbing guide
  • Porter support
  • Camping equipment
  • All meals
  • Crampons, harness and rope

Not included

  • Flights
  • Personal climbing gear
  • Insurance
  • Emergency evacuation

More mountaineering

Moderate

Kang Yatse II (6,200m)

The lower western summit of the Kang Yatse massif, approached via the Markha Valley trek from Chilling or Spituk. It needs no special mountaineering skills, making it ideal as a first Himalayan 6,000m summit. Scree slopes lead to a steep snow climb, with summit views stretching to K2 and the Zanskar range.

  • 10 days
  • 4–5 people
  • Best season: Jul – Sep
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Challenging

Kang Yatse I (6,400m)

The true, higher summit of the Kang Yatse massif, reached via a technically demanding knife-edge ridge traverse. Approached via the Markha Valley, it should only be attempted by experienced climbers and sees far fewer ascents than its easier neighbour, Kang Yatse II.

  • 10 days
  • 4–5 people
  • Best season: Jul – Sep
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Mentok Kangri (6,250m)

Rising above the western shore of Tso Moriri in the remote Rupshu-Changthang plateau, this semi-technical peak offers stunning views across the lake to the 6,600m Chamser and Lungser Kangri. The climb itself takes 3–4 days from Korzok village and pairs well with the Rumtse to Tso Moriri trek for acclimatisation.

  • 7 days
  • 4–5 people
  • Best season: Jul – Sep
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